NEIGHBOURHOODS · FOOD · 2026
The interesting cooking moved north of Palermo years ago, into a few blocks where Chacarita, Villa Crespo and Colegiales run into each other and nobody agrees where the line is.
For most of its history Chacarita was known for its cemetery, which is enormous, and for being quiet, which it still mostly is. Over the past decade the low blocks around Avenida Jorge Newbery and Calle Dorrego filled with chefs, natural wine importers, ceramicists and small publishers priced out of Palermo, and the result is the most interesting few square kilometres of eating in the city.
One honest caveat before the list, because guides get this wrong constantly: these places sit on a border. Chacarita, Villa Crespo and Colegiales meet here, the boundary runs down the middle of the blocks in question, and depending on which map you trust, three of the four addresses below are in Villa Crespo rather than Chacarita. Locals treat the whole thing as one neighbourhood and so does this article, but if a taxi driver corrects you, they are not wrong.
01 · ANCHOÍTA
CHACARITA BORDER · MICHELIN GUIDE 2025
The restaurant that started the shift
The restaurant that started the shift. Enrique Piñeyro, who has also been a doctor, a commercial pilot and a film director, opened it in 2018 in a former soda siphon factory, and it does one thing with complete seriousness: Argentine produce, handled in house. Charcuterie cured on site, a wood-fired grill, river fish, a cheese room, and a wine list that is long even by the standards of a country that takes wine seriously.
It entered the Michelin Guide Argentina in 2025, which is the recognition the neighbourhood had been building towards.
→ JUAN RAMÍREZ DE VELASCO 1520, ON THE CHACARITA AND VILLA CRESPO BORDER
Open Tuesday to Saturday, 20:00 to 01:00. Tables go months ahead; the bar seats are the realistic option if you have not booked, and they go to whoever arrives when the doors open.
02 · DONNET
CHACARITA · VEGAN · MUSHROOM LED
A hundred year old tavern that serves fungi
A hundred year old tavern that now serves almost nothing but mushrooms. Manuela Donnet started buying portobellos from a stall next to hers at the San Telmo market and built an entire kitchen out of the idea: fermented chestnut bases, mushrooms macerated in olive liqueur, raw crackers, broths with more depth than they have any business having.
Worth knowing before you book: it is fully vegan, with no flour and no animal products anywhere on the menu. That is a feature if you are looking for it and a surprise if you are not. Vermouth, natural wine, cider and kombucha to drink, mismatched furniture, no ceremony.
→ AV. JORGE NEWBERY 4081, CHACARITA
Open Tuesday to Saturday, 20:00 to midnight.
03 · NARANJO BAR
NATURAL WINE · SHOP AND BISTRO
Pick a bottle off the wall and sit down
Half natural wine shop, half corner bistro. You pick a bottle off the wall and sit down with it, inside or at a table on the pavement under the trees. The wines are the point: small producers, organic, biodynamic and minimal intervention, from all over the country, including the orange wines the place is named for. The food is small plates off a board that changes.
Condé Nast Traveler named it one of the best new restaurants in the world in 2021, and it has stayed exactly as unpretentious as it was.
→ ÁNGEL JUSTINIANO CARRANZA 1059
Hours vary and the listings disagree, so check before you go.
04 · ANCHOÍTA PANADERÍA
SOURDOUGH · COFFEE · FROM 9:00
The best breakfast in this part of the city
A few blocks from the restaurant, the bakery arm: sourdough, laminated pastry, medialunas, babka, organic and heritage flours, and a window you can watch the bakers work through. Coffee is good. It is the best breakfast in this part of the city and the easiest place on this list to get into.
→ AGUIRRE 1562
Open Wednesday to Sunday from 9:00.
The four, at a glance
| Place | What it is | Open |
|---|---|---|
| Anchoíta | Argentine produce, grill, charcuterie, Michelin Guide | Tuesday to Saturday, 20:00 to 01:00 |
| Donnet | Vegan, mushroom led, small and informal | Tuesday to Saturday, 20:00 to 24:00 |
| Naranjo Bar | Natural wine shop and bistro | Varies, confirm before going |
| Anchoíta Panadería | Sourdough bakery and coffee | Wednesday to Sunday, from 9:00 |
The blocks in between
The other reason to come is the walking. Between Avenida Dorrego, Jorge Newbery and Calle Charlone, old mechanics' garages and small warehouses have turned into ceramic studios, lighting workshops, vintage furniture rooms and galleries, most of them with the shutter half up and somebody working inside. It is not a designed shopping district and there is no map of it; you find things by walking.
Getting there and back
Chacarita is a fifteen to twenty five minute drive from Palermo or Recoleta depending on traffic, and the Subte B line reaches the neighbourhood, which handles the trip out. The trip back is the awkward one: these restaurants finish late, the streets are residential and quiet, and app cars take their time on a Tuesday at midnight.
Book a driver for the evening. Message us on WhatsApp at +54 9 11 2404-0448 or book a private car and eat where the city is actually eating.